Recently I made the decision to start a 40K army after my failure with ‘Bling’ Marines last year. It has been an absolute age since I’ve done any modelling and with player numbers swelling at Mad for Miniatures I thought it was about time I cracked out some modelling ‘skills’ (and by this I don’t mean on the cat walk) – on a side note I also thought I’d blog my endeavour to do what most of us mere mortals will never do, finish a completed 40k army, painted and everything.
My first choice was, which Army as Games Workshop has soooo many good ones. I have an Ork army of around 1500pts painted (thanks Mr. Beer), so they are out (even though there are tons of models I still want). From the impressive GW range I managed to whittle my final choices down too:
Imperial Guard, Chaos – Deathguard and Necrons
All of the above Armies have a great choice of models that have appealed to me in the past, well apart from Necrons, because, well quiet frankly their older models sucked as they were all metal and pretty static models
After some deliberation and chatting to other 40k players on the Mad for Miniatures at Games Workshop Facebook page I decided on Necrons, which was followed by several likes, a very delighted Olly and offers of Army Lists from George
So with Army chosen and approval from the group I set about making my first purchase. “Codex”, I hear you say! Now for anyone that knows me that would be my last choice (if possible), but as its not possible I grabbed the Codex. After a bit of riffling I was happy with my decision. This army has lots of cool models with awesome shooty guns!!
Now models, but which first. I like the whole range!
In the end I settled for the Christmas Necron Army Deal. At £150 its a steal boasting around £200 worth of miniatures, it was to good a deal to miss. Its likely in the end I would be buying most of the contents of this Army Deal anyway, so thought why not!
So after parting with Cash I set about ripping off the cellophane and opening the box, to be confronted by a magnitude of plastic sprues. My initial thought, was this the right purchase for me, which was soon forgotten as I started scrabbling through the box for the Triarch Stalker.
After finding the 3 sprues worth of parts I started looking through the instructions. Yes! For those of you that have not done any GW miniatures in a few years, they require Instructions and you will use them, or at least you should.
There are 4 main parts to the Triarch Stalker: Legs, Cockpit, Crew (1) and Weapons (3) .
The legs are easy to fit together but do require a lot of cleaning up around edges to remove the unsightly mold lines. All of the legs are made up of two parts. So when stuck together will need some extra cleaning up and filling with some Games Workshop Liquid Green Stuff (LGS), to finish them off.If you haven’t ever used the Liquid Green stuff its very easy to use – I personally just mix a little on my pallet and add a drop of water, then paint it on just like a normal paint to fill in the gaps.
It took me around 1hr to get all the legs together, just be careful on the 2 front big legs as the ball joints are moveable so glue should be used carefully.
Next I moved onto the cockpit. This part clipped together nicely, watch the underside where the control panel joins to the floor as if this is not fixed straight it will leave some undesirable gaps and make your control panel a little wonky! Once the cockpit was finished I decided to attach the crew members arm to the control panel. Later I found this was most helpful in getting the ‘tricksy’ Necron into the correct position.
The crew member of this vessel was a ‘little’ awkward (for want of a better word), but as I wanted to paint him before he is fixed in, it was imperative that I got him in the right position first. I worked from the hip up which was fine. All parts fitted together nicely and a little LGS finished off the job. When I got to the legs I realised they had ball joints at the hip, while the hip had flat edges? I grabbed some Blue Tac and fixed the feet to the floor of the cockpit and then proceeded to get the positioning of the legs and body right! Once happy I clipped the edges of the ball joints. I then stuck the legs to the hip joint and when it was dry I removed the feet from the Blue Tac giving me a perfectly positioned model. Again this was made a little easier as I had previously attached the Necrons control panel arm to the main control panel (so no dodgy’ the shoulder bone doesn’t connect to the, arm bone syndrome’) .
The weapons all use the same turret as the main part of the weapon. Each weapon has separate add-on, either cables, tubes or glowing lights (ohhh). I stuck the main part together and again had some cleaning up and used some LGS to finish it off. I then cleaned up all the parts. Luckily, or maybe thoughtfully! Games Workshop have made the model so all of these parts can be magnetised if so desired (something I will be doing, when they arrive).
So with all the parts cleaned up and stuck together ready for magnetising and painting. My conclusion of the Triarch Stalker is a nice model to put together. It does have a couple of tricky parts including the control panel attaching to the cockpit and the awkwardness of getting the crew member in place, but spend a little time on these parts and try not to get frustrated and all your work will be fruitful. The model does require some heavy cleaning up around the legs as mentioned before to get rid of those pesky mold lines, but on the whole an enjoyable task ……… Now just looking forward to getting it magnetised ready for full construction and painting!
Until next time……
……and here we are Part 2
Since my last post I have been attempting (I say attempting), to Magnetise the two models I’ve been working on. My Triarch Stalker and Canoptek Spyder.
Before I continue writing about this ‘attempt’ I should probably mention that my first attempt to use magnets failed badly many moons ago when I tried to fix guns, to emplacements on an Ork Vehicle. Since then I’ve steered clear of any sort of Magnetisation on any model.
Saying that, I want to do a good job on these Necrons so I have decided to give it a try again. Once the magnets arrived, all 3 sizes, 1mm, 2mm and 3mm I set about finding the tools for the Job:
Drill Bits, Drill, Super Glue, Tooth Picks and Blu Tac
It actually turns out that the tools above are no where near the amount of tools you will actually need to do a good job especially of something goes wrong. To that list you should probably add:
Clippers, Tweezers, Knife, Green Stuff and Rapid Cure
The night of trying to Magnetise these models at home was, well, let’s say less then fruitful. A number of things went wrong as I didn’t have all the right tools for the job. While trying to do the Triarch Stalker I had a couple of Magnets flip themselves and get stuck in their drilled holes backwards. One magnet managed to get itself stuck to another magnet and wouldn’t come loose. I decided to leave the mistakes and the Stalker until I returned to the shop the next day and had all the tools available to correct the issues mentioned above.
Next I decided to take a look at the Canoptek Spyder, even though I was lacking in tools it seemed like it would be a lot easier. On this model there are multiple places to magnetise. These include the main weapon, underbelly weapons, heads and Back part of the model that creates Scarabs. As the model has small a joining parts I decided to use the 1mm Magnets.
Magnetising the head seemed the easiest place to start, it was! I then magnetised the neck to the main body using 1mm magnets. After finishing the head I moved to the back part of the Spyder.
I wanted to Magnetise this part of the model rather then just sticking it shut so I can paint the inside. This way people will still be able to see the work inside if so desired. It turns out theses parts of the model where the top fits to the bottom have some very thin connecting points (probably 1.2mm), so drilling out the magnet holes was going to have to be precise. I decided that 4 magnets should be enough to hold this part in place, two at the front and a further two at the back.
Next was the underbelly weapons – seeing as the Spyder has weapon upgrades I thought it would be good to magnetise all of these. I fixed the two Syringes on the front points with super glue, then magnetised the Gloom Prism and the Fabricator Claw array again using 1mm magnets.
Next was the main weapon the twin-linked Particle Beamer. This is another upgrade so decided to magnetise the front of the model where this weapon is supposed to be fixed. For this part I used a bigger magnet (2mm) so that it held stronger.
With this model all together I retired for the night…….
The next day, back in the shop I set about sorting out the previous nights mistakes. Clive kindly helped remove the magnets that had gotten stuck in the Triarch Stalker weapon the wrong way round by drilling them out very carefully. It was then just a case of turning them around and re glueing them.
Next came the Necron crew – I drilled a hole in the base of his spine unit and another to his spine attached to the model and added two 1mm magnets, one to each hole. I thought it best to use magnets on this part to make it easier to remove him from the cockpit. Also painting the detail on his back would be a pain with his backpack in place. When I fitted him into the cockpit his legs decided to fall off (opppsss)! At this point I decided to magnetise his elbow joint to the fore arm attached to the control panel, again using 1mm magnets. It turns out this was a good move as the magnets held him nicely in place so I could reposition and re glue his legs into place at the hip.
I then magnetised the cockpit to the body and legs. I used two, 2mm magnets, one on either side of the body. I was previously going to magnetise all of the legs but thought better of this when I actually got around to this part of the model.
The weapons – these was a lot of work as the main barrel of the weapon is used for all three weapon variants. I decided to pin all the lights, cables and guns. So now all 3 weapons are completely interchangable.
I have also started getting a Scenic Fantascape Base ready for this model as I cant stand a model not having a base! I have used a flying, oval shaped Fantascape base. I marked with pencil on the model where the Triarch Stalkers legs would attach and then drilled holes and added pins. I then filled around the pins with Liguid Green Stuff.
Round up – When using magnets make sure your modelling area is clear. It turns out all modelling tools are metal (mine are anyway), magnets like attaching themselves where ever they can. Take your time and make sure you have all your tools handy. Don’t get to complicated, less is more sometimes!
Until next time……